Smart Solutions for the Hard-to-Fit Man
Tailoring of custom shirts, mens' suits and mens' slacks
can help you look your very best every day of the week. While there are no
strict rules about fitting different body types, certain principles do apply.
In general, the goal of custom tailors is to use clothing to balance your
natural features. Whatever is pronounced in your personal body type can be
de-emphasized through thoughtful tailoring. Your custom made shirt collar,
jacket and slacks can all be exquisitely tailored to your unique measurements
and features.
The face is the first thing people notice, so it is important to frame it
appropriately. Tailors with an eye for style will instinctively choose custom
made shirt collars that hide more of the long neck and reveal more of the short
one. Similarly, they will accommodate narrow faces with broader collar choices,
and atone for wider, rounder visages with longer, pointed tabs.
SHORT AND STOCKY TYPE
Custom tailors and other style experts agree that the key for this body type is
to emphasize the vertical dimensions in order to create a balanced look. Mens'
suits with two-button jackets work better than those with three, calling less
attention to the wearer's height. The best cut will have well defined lines
rather than rounded corners. The use of side vents and breast pockets will
further serve to streamline the appearance. Wide sleeves call attention to the
build and sleeves should be tapered down towards the hands. Short and heavy men
would be advised to make selections from among darker fabrics of smooth
texture. The slacks should be positioned high on the waist and be cuffed but
not too wide at the bottom. The traditional straight point collar is the shirt
of choice for custom made shirts, as it provides an excellent counterpoint to
the natural build. Substantial shoes will keep this body type on solid ground.
SHORT AND SLIM TYPE
When considering mens' suits, the jacket cut should pick up where the body leaves
off, moving the dimensions towards a more triangular appearance: broader at the
shoulders and narrower at the waist. A long mens' suit jacket will only call
attention to the body's dimension and should be avoided. The jacket should be
as short as is reasonable without compromising the overall appearance. Three
buttons tend to have a lengthening effect and are recommended. Higher lapels
further accentuate the cut. An astute tailor will instinctively know to apply
flap pockets and vents on the sides rather than the back. Dark colors in medium
weight fabrics are good choices. Matching slacks are more harmonious than those
of different colors and textures. The slacks should be worn high on the waist
with the leg extending down over the foot to emphasize the overall body length.
Custom made shirts with stripes are good choices because they have a
lengthening effect on the vertical dimension. Suspenders further support the
cause (but be sure not to wear a belt).
TALL AND LANKY MEN
The general rule regarding tall builds is to broaden the overall appearance.
This can be accomplished elegantly with mens' suits that have wide jackets with
a generous incline at the shoulders. Two-button jackets are preferred over
three, and longer looks better than shorter. Double breasted will also work
admirably if carefully tailored. A made to measure suit with extra pockets and
wider lapels can further enhance the tall and lanky stature by adding width at
the appropriate places. Heavier fabrics are preferred. We all have seen tall
men with slacks cut too small. Slacks should be cut full and taper gently down
the leg. Custom shirts should be cut on the full side.
Spread collars have a nice way of balancing the overall appearance, providing
extra horizontal dimension. Custom tailors tend to agree that contrasting
collars can further flatter this body type, so consider this possibility as you
choose your custom shirts.
MEN WITH ATHLETIC BUILD
The goal in fitting the athletic build is to create a balance between the broad
chest and shoulders and the more modest dimensions of the remainder of body.
The jacket of the mens' suit plays an important role if cut lean at the
shoulders, a bit longish in length, and not too narrow at the waist. Two
buttons are plenty and will serve to create a balanced look that is further
assisted by flap pockets. If vents are to be cut, they are best placed on the
sides. A good tailor will typically create lapels with a little extra size, as
this will complement the physique. Fabrics are best if they tend towards the
lighter and less cumbersome (otherwise a man may begin to look heavy). The full
cut slacks should be worn high on the waist to strengthen the midsection and
provide a fluid vertical continuity. Custom made shirts can complete the
ensemble fittingly if the collars are vertical. One should not be shy about
choosing stripes, as they work beautifully with the athletic build.
